Happy Fingers by Eva Lopez

In the middle of the rush for applying Artificial Intelligence (AI) and Machine Learning to training apps, Happy Fingers wants you, rather than the machine, to be the one that actually learns something.

Happy Fingers has the following goals:

• Answering all of your questions related to finger training for climbing;

• Carefully guiding you in the process of choosing some training method or grip type;

• Describing how to warm up; how to hang or how to perform each program;

• Teaching you how to control the load to ensure the desired effects;

• Offering alternatives to keep from stalling;

• Preventing injuries, overtraining and excessive fatigue in your forearms;

• Describing different training methods and the optimal exercise for each circumstance;

• Providing a range of training programs for each method, level and athletic goal to choose from.

I’m Eva López; climbing is my passion and the topic of my doctoral thesis on Finger Endurance and Strength Training in Climbing. I developed Happy Fingers with the aim of making you the main character in your growth process, looking at the reasons behind any hitch you find while training, offering strategies to keep your motivation or progressing in the long run. Of course, your personal situation, objectives and needs will always be part of the equation.

All of the above is based on the most up to date research and what I’ve learned along my 20+ years of observation, analysis and experimentation. I have adapted all that knowledge to the individual characteristics of every person I’ve trained, including myself, to refine and complete the process. Linking Science & Experience, relating Theory & Practice, Evidence-based Training, all describe this educational resource that will help you get the most out of your workouts and your climbs.

I want to make clear that the Happy Fingers app does not automatically churn out training programs from some initial evaluation. It's full of information and advice, but it will never command you to blindly follow some path. Individualization is a staple of training, the Holy Grail. You decide. You’re on the driver’s seat.

CONTENTS:

1. Before You Hang.

11. Are dead hangs for me?

1.2. Terminology.

1.3. What gear do I need

2. The Basic Dilemmas

2.1. Strength or Muscular Endurance?

2.2. Which Method do I Choose?

2.3. Which Grip Type to Use?

3. Training Methods

3.1. Maximal Head Hangs.

3.2. Submaximal Dead Hangs.

3.3. Intermittent Dead Hangs.

4. The Finger Meets the Edge

4.1.Dead Hangs Technique.

4.2.Warming Up.

4.3. Control of the Load. Self-regulation.

5. Periodization

5.1. The Dead Hangs Session.

5.2. The Training Week.

5.3. Proposed Training Plans.

5.4. Improving in the Long-Term.

5.5. Monitoring and Directing your Training.

6. The Road to Perseverance

6.1. Staying Motivated.

6.2. Reducing the Risk of Injury.

Future updates will bring even more contents, mainly in Methods, Programs and Physiological Adaptations.

Strong Fingers are Happy Fingers

Fingers with an Evidence-Based Approach are Happy Fingers

Well-coached fingers, Happy Fingers